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What to Use Instead of a "Training Collar" for Loose Leash Walking in Safety

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Wed, 09/05/2007 - 17:26 — Aidan

Over the years I've had a lot of questions from people with big, strong dogs who use some sort of "training collar" (prong, electronic or check chain) to prevent being over-powered. Often they have a very good reason for using this sort of collar, but want to know if they can wean their dog off it.

The answer is definitely "yes". A friend of mine weighs in at about 80lb and has two massive German Shepherds. They are both trained to walk on a loose leash, but she uses head halters on both dogs in case of emergency.

A head halter can be a very effective tool when used correctly. They are often called "power steering for dogs". They are not used for training at all, they are purely a management tool providing you with a safe means of handling a powerful dog without accidentally applying corrections.

They do need to be fitted correctly. The two I have used are the Gentle Leader and Black Dog Head Halter. Both of these collars are to be fitted very tightly high up around the base of the skull, with the nose loop fairly loose (although not so loose that it might slip over the nose). They are almost always fitted too loosely, which leads to chafing around the nose and a loss of effective control.

A viable alternative is one of the many front-attaching harnesses. I have not used one of these personally, but Sue Ailsby reckons they are great and that is enough for me!

Head halters and front-attaching harnesses are not training tools, they are management tools. For training loose leash walking you can't go past the method employed by the very same Sue Ailsby found in her Training Levels program. I interviewed Sue and discovered what you really need to know to teach reliable Loose Leash Walking, the interview can be found here.

A lot of loose leash problems are really what some people call "doggy zen" problems. Dogs need to learn self-control and one of the lessons we can use is called "doggy zen" - "The get XXXX, you must first give up XXXX, do YYYY, then you will get XXXX".

So if we have a dog who really, really wants to go sniff something exciting then we have to find a way to teach the dog "the sooner you stop trying to sniff that by pulling me there, the sooner we'll get there" Ailsby's "Penalty Yards" is one very effective way to teach that.

Comments

Thu, 09/06/2007 - 18:32 — Marniem

Zen and the "Nutso Dog"

Thanks for the great article, Aidan, along with the good links. Based on Sue Ailsby's story of "Song and the Sheep", would you think that an effective approach to my pup's extreme agitation when going to Doggy Day Care might be to just stand around outside the door, ignoring him, until he discovers that he won't get anywhere when acting that way? (The transition from outside to inside is problematic too, of course, but we can turn and go back out the door if he gets nuts again.)

Thanks,
Marnie

Mon, 09/10/2007 - 09:31 — Aidan
Aidan's picture

It depends on why he is "nutso"

Hi Marnie, I don't like to make assumptions, and it depends on why he is "nutso". If he is nutso because he's excited and wants to be inside with the other dogs, then your strategy is sound.

If he is nutso because he is afraid and wants everyone to give him some space, then we would have to take a different approach.

Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com

Tue, 09/11/2007 - 06:07 — Marniem

He's a Happy Nutso!

Hi Aidan,

Sorry for the lack of context.

My pup is SO excited and eager to play with other pups that he nearly jumps out of his skin, so it looks like outwaiting him (as long as I don't get arrested for loitering while leashed to a yowling dog) may be a way to go. I have tried it in less loaded situations thanks to your recommendations and Sue Ailsby's website, and it has great promise. The one thing that I have noticed about my dog's behavior at the Doggy Day Care door is that it seems to have become like a learned response to a trigger, and be more powerful than the presence of other dogs is in any other situation. He does get excited elsewhere to be sure, but the "flavor" at the Day Care is different, if that makes sense.

Thanks,
Marnie

Tue, 09/11/2007 - 09:07 — Aidan
Aidan's picture

Hi Marnie, in the

Hi Marnie, in the interview you may have noticed that an audience member at one of Sue's seminars asked her "why didn't you just move further away?" and Sue had a flat forehead moment.

I'd treat this more like "penalty yards" than "Song and the Sheep". Given that what reinforces his behavior is "getting closer to the action", take him away from the action when he yowls. When he settles, click and let him take a step closer to the action.

You might like to use The Calm-O-Meter so you know when to click, and when to back up. This is a bit easier (and more satisfying) than the "all or nothing" approach.

Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com

Tue, 09/11/2007 - 15:43 — Marniem

Penalty Yards

Thanks for this, Aidan. I did read about the "flat-forehead moment", but had forgotten!

I've done a (less-well-thought-out) version of penalty yards, but it's seemed to rev him up more, by which I guess I should infer that the penalty wasn't enough yards, or that I didn't wait long enough at each step? It's entirely possible that I've rushed it too, since I don't always have the hour it takes to get him through the door quietly when I'm on my way to work. I didn't have a clicker in my "arsenal" before, though, and perhaps it will help clarify things for him, and also for me. I'm finding that deciding when to click really makes me clearer in my own mind about exactly what behavior I'm looking for.

Thanks,
Marnie