new pup-crate and loose leash walking
Help! I really don't want to kill any fairies, but my dog needs exercise, and i have to leave her alone for a few hours each day. I am getting a new Lab 98.5 weeks) named Kiwi and have looked at the crate training levelson Sue Ailsby's site, I have 4 days home before i am back to work at my vet clinic (I can take her, and her crate)-so
can she really not ever be walked on leash in neighborhood to meet and greet unless she is walking on a loose leash?
Where can she sleep at night, if not in her crate, where she will be safe???
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Positive Petzine
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re: new pup-crate and loose leash walking
So let me get this straight - before you even get your pup you are assuming that she will be very difficult to walk on a loose leash and that she will have to go without reasonable exercise to achieve this?
What hope have you got!?! ;-)
OK, let's see if we can fix up some of your preconceived ideas to give you the best chance at success here. Firstly, pup is a BLANK SLATE who has probably never worn a leash before. If pup learns from day one that a tight leash never gets her anywhere then she will never become conditioned to pull on the leash. They don't come with some natural instinct to pull on the leash, we have to teach them that!
If we teach them something else, that's what they'll do. This all happens really quickly when they haven't spent a year or two learning that pulling on the leash will get them somewhere.
If you're really, really worried about it buy a collar and also a harness. You can let her pull a little when the leash is clipped to the harness (so long as she stops pulling when YOU stop, teach her that at least). When you clip the leash to the collar, NEVER let her pulling get her anywhere. Be absolutely consistent.
As for the crate, I love Sue's instructions but if you have a new pup and want her to sleep in the crate on the first night then you don't have to follow them. Put the crate beside your bed so pup feels secure, hopefully she will be so tired that if she does object to being locked in she won't fuss for long. You shouldn't have any problems with a youngster.
Another tip - set your alarm for about 4 hours after you go to bed. Get pup up, take her outside to toilet, then pop her back in the crate until morning. Each night, set the alarm a little later. If she has an accident or wakes you to toilet, set the alarm a little earlier than whatever time she wakes for a few days, then start adding a few minutes each night.
Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com
new pup loose leash
Thanks Aiden, What i need to know now is do i have to take the clicker every where i go or can i just condition her by playing red light green light (stop when she pulls, walk when leash is loose) also, i like to really WALK for my own exercise but how far can i ask her to go between breaks to sniff and explore...and what do i do if while sniffing and exploring she tightens the leash...(just so you know, I AMMMM hopeful and full of enthusiasm since finding this wonderful site! I want to have fun with her but know how quickly some bouncy dogs learn to pull!)
re: new pup loose leash
Yup, take the clicker with you everywhere. If you forget, you can use verbal praise but you might as well get into the habit. As for the food, I just use 'sausage packed' dog food cut into tiny cubes. Remember to include this as part of your dog's total food intake.
Putting in the effort early will save you lots of trouble down the track, and there are so many things you can teach a pup.
>>i like to really WALK for my own exercise but how far can i ask her to go between breaks to sniff and explore..<<
That's really up to you provided you are reasonable about it. Remember that pups should only be walked for about 20min at a time, so you might need to schedule some walks on your own for your exercise.
>>and what do i do if while sniffing and exploring she tightens the leash.<<
Stop and back up away from whatever she is trying to get to on the tight leash. Think of the fairies!
Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com
loose leash consequences
Ok, so i reward what i like with a click and treat ( rewarding ever increasing duration of effort)and if she makes the leash tight i stop and wait til its loose then go back to clicking and treating only a step and working back up. To me it seems the worse thing that happens is if she makes a mistake the rewards then come more quickly---or from her perspective, i asked more than she could do and we back it up alot and start over, presumably over time making more forward progress....is there no other consequence? Do i turn and go back in the other direction? From the dogs point of view would that help or it really doesnt matter? Thanks...i feel i understand the concept but the acutal putting into effect is what i feel less confident about. Barbara
re: loose leash consequences
>>To me it seems the worse thing that happens is if she makes a mistake the rewards then come more quickly<<
The mistake itself is not reinforced, only the correct responses are reinforced. I suppose it is possible that some dogs will figure out they can increase the rate of reinforcement briefly by making a mistake, but I've not actually seen it happen, only speculated upon.
>>....is there no other consequence?<<
The consequence of pulling is that you stop, dog doesn't get anywhere. Boring. If the dog is really focused on getting TO something specific, you can even gently back up away from the thing.
Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com
loose leash and crate?
Do I have this straight? You're getting a Labrador Retriever - one of the most social dogs ever - and the first night as transition from the intense social and physical contact of the litter, you want her to sleep alone, locked in a box?!
Social creatures need contact to develop and to become attached.
What has happened to dog ownership? As soon as a puppy comes into the house, the first concern is how can it be taught to be alone!!
I have been training dogs for a quarter of a century in Los Angeles, and the saddest thing is to be called in because a pup is suffering "separation anxiety". Translation: continuous solitary confinement is very emotionally and mentally destructive. You can look here for a more elegant discussion of the effects of isolation: http://www.responsibledog.net/helplessness.html
I recommend that your pup sleep on the bed with you. Yeah, you can set the alarm for 4 hours later to take her out to eliminate, but I'd guess it would sleep right through. In the morning, sit on a blanket and feed the pup one piece of kibble at a time; either from your hand or by gently tossing it a few feet for her to chase. Call her back and when she returns, pet her, and let her see you toss another one (there is her exercise). Labs intuitively fetch at 9 weeks, so it will come easily and be lots of fun. If you have to leave, she can sleep on the blanket you were sitting on earlier.
As for walking on leash: 10 year old girls are the best at this; they are patient, they go with the dog, they wait while it sniffs.
I have not any experience with the idea of standing still until the dog stops pulling work out very well. How is the opposition reflex dealt with, and where and what is the reinforcer and how does the dog associate it with stopping?
Actually, I would put a 6 foot leash on her collar and take her out to the front step, put my foot on the leash, sit down, and drink my coffee, and wait until she lies down. Wait 5 more minutes and return inside. (First Lesson: leash on means we are not going anywhere.) Repeat this until she lies down almost immediately. Then get up, walk about six feet, turn around sit back down on the step or go inside. etc.
At the vet's office they must have a little section where paperwork gets done; puppy proof the area (ok, use a ex-pen, if necessary), and keep her there when you are at work. Everyone can take turns holding her on their laps while on break or writing up cases.
Then, take her with you everywhere. Ok you have to miss the gym for a few weeks, or get someone to stay with her while you're gone.
Counter intuitively, your creating a confident dog which can then tolerate being alone, not a dependent one.
I know this is not conventional; but we have to start thinking outside the crate, er... box.
best wishes, Bill Stavers,
training dogs from the heart since 1983.
re: loose leash and crate?
>>and the first night as transition from the intense social and physical contact of the litter, you want her to sleep alone, locked in a box?!<<
Hi Bill, a comfortable crate right beside the bed is a long way off social isolation. You make it sound like pup is torn forcibly from the litter then, without any attempt to bond with pup, thrown in a cold, dark box in the basement!
This is more like bringing a human baby into the world. Baby is fed, cuddled, then wrapped in blankets and put in a "plastic box" right beside mother until it needs a feed or it's nappy changed.
There are a lot of possible contributors to separation anxiety. I doubt crate training in the manner described is one of them. I certainly don't know of any causal link.
However I very much agree with your concept of "creating a confident dog which can then tolerate being alone".
>>I have not any experience with the idea of standing still until the dog stops pulling work out very well. How is the opposition reflex dealt with, and where and what is the reinforcer and how does the dog associate it with stopping?<<
I think you would have to become familiar with the method in order for me to answer these questions. The most basic explanation is positive reinforcement for loose leash, extinction or negative punishment for tight leash. Loose leash is heavily reinforced, and we teach the dog very quickly to come back if we stop.
I'm sure there are a million ways to make a mess of "don't let a dog go anywhere on a tight leash" but they all come back to inconsistency (breaking the rule). So that's where I focus the message. As for making it quick and painless, that takes a bit more finesse.
Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com
re new pup-crate and loose leash walking
Well, yes, Aiden, I was being a bit dramatic. But, I'd like to keep human babies and puppies as separate discussions.
That being said, I can't help but notice how trends in dog ownership, behavior, training have developed over the past 20 years. In 1996, Dodman published his best selling book The Dog Who Loved Too Much. At the time I had a hunch that a dog that loves too much is a strange description of a dog behavior? When I started dog training in 1983, separation anxiety was non existent.
Dogs have not changed, but the circumstances of how they are kept, pressures they are subject to, and emotional demands placed on them are heavier now.
Bill Stavers
training dog from the heart for the past 26 years
crates, loose leash walking
Hi, well Kiwi cried for her friends for 2 nights then settled. She sleeps in her crate next to me. I spent some time training her to enter the open crate on her own and now she is very content to do so.. she will not sleep in my bed as an adult, so tempting as it is, I am not having her sleep in bed now. She is doing remarkably well with the loose leash!!!! Now my question is when we meet people -or especially DOGS who cause great excitement and pulling, am i just making her reactive and frustrated by not letting her go see them until she lets the leash loose? Or is there a better way?? People are so NOT understanding they just want to bend down and pet her.
By the way--I am borrowing your allusion and telling my staff her food dish and crate door are majical-they dont hit the floor or open unless she is sitting--they didnt believe me but I told them Kiwi believes it and showed them. They then asked "How do you manage to get such calm dogs" (Smug smirk---until Kiwi humbles me!) Thanks for your help!
re: crates, loose leash walking
>> Now my question is when we meet people -or especially DOGS who cause great excitement and pulling, am i just making her reactive and frustrated by not letting her go see them until she lets the leash loose? <<
Ideally, if she can settle down and approach calmly then you've got the best possible outcome - a dog who does not pull on the leash and understands that the fastest way to get what she wants is to calm down. So how long is it taking her to settle (if indeed she is settling)?
Can you get her attention when she does this? If she can sit, she can walk on a loose leash also but she may not yet have the idea. Some set-ups with an older, more calm dog will help. You can do it several times in a row, of course the excitement will be gone very quickly but that's OK.
So you know what she has to end up learning. I think the quickest way there is controlled set-ups, and the sooner the better.
Let's turn it around though, what's one way to teach a pup to become reactive when meeting other dogs? (Assuming it's "distance decreasing behaviour") When they are mid-tantrum, let them pull on the leash and greet the other dog. Just make sure you don't do that.
I don't really encourage on-leash greetings. If both dogs are good on-leash they can be OK, but if just one of them isn't they end in tangles and tangles can end in fights. If you're in a position to do it, ask pup to sit, facing you, then unclip or drop the leash. This doesn't require quite so much concentration.
An alternative to on-leash greetings is to ask the other person to walk with you a little way, that way the dogs aren't jumping all over each other and they can just go sniff the first thing they come across together.
When people want to come and meet your new pup, just ask pup to sit, use a food lure if you have to, and ask the person to come to you. That way pup is already in a sit, not straining at the leash or jumping.
Don't sweat the inevitable little mistakes too much, just be consistent, it sounds like you're doing a great job and pup is getting plenty of opportunities to become a good canine citizen!
Regards,
Aidan
http://www.positivepetzine.com
About Separation Anxiety
Hi Bill,
I just would like to comment on your comment: "When I started dog training in 1983, separation anxiety was non existent." I beg to differ.
I have a few years of experience in this business. The first time I saw SA was as a Vet Assistant in 1969, one of the women I worked with, was moving with her 3 legged dog. (that I actually rescued from the street with a bad leg injury and she ended up adopting) The second day after she had moved in the new apartment, the dog literally Dug himself out of the house! He was crate trained (and comfortable) because he had spend 2 months in the hospital and then another several months living a normal life in this gals home. He Freaked Out and my Vets called it Separation Anxiety! The unfortunate part is that there was no known "Cure" for this very dangerous behavior and he was never the same in that place. So in our, then, ignorance he had to be destroyed. So it has existed for quite sometime it's just in the last couple of decades that progressive trainers and sometimes vets with drugs, have been able to heal this behavior.
Most of my cases of SA are rescue dogs that have been traumatized by being lost, dropped off in scary places, then left alone by new owners, before they have been able to get their bearings, or learned that they will be OK. Please understand that there is a process to healing these dogs. Fortunately, I have not met many at all, who were crate trained properly and with care, to teach them how great that dog-room is, who have serious SA. That is my experience and that of other trainers I have talked with about this subject and what can be done to keep it from happening? It's hard to get shelters to change the scenario from cold hard and noisy prisons. Yes I see some owners who because they see the dog as a human, built the behavior into the dog. I have also seen it develop in dogs that were poorly bred or just had the temperament for it.
Thanks Aiden I must go to bed now! Bea
K9sbehave.com
new pup crate and loose leash walking
I agree-separation anxiety has been around a long time. Your observation that shelter dogs have a higher incidence has been investigated-it may very well be that more dogs who have separation anxiety are turned loose as strays or turned in to shelters. I myself adopted a 12 week old mixed breed who had been turned in because of severe anxiety (in 1984). This was when i first began to suspect that the current assessment-crazy nervous owners make crazy nervous dogs-was not true. It IS true that many dogs can go either way and an informed owner can coach the dog to be less anxious or disastrously more anxious.
on the original note, I still am not sure if the best thing for a new pup while training loose leash walking is to hold still and wait til she sits to greet a person or dog or if there is another tactic I should be doing to increase her success---after all it is normal for a puppy to run over to say hi and i want her to be friendly and relaxed on and off leash. Thank you for all your advice barbara
Greeting people on leash
I have a Border Terrier that LOVES EVERYONE HUMAN! I taught him to "Say Hello" by teaching him to touch a persons hand. It was taught like every other REALLY important behavior like Wait, Down, and of course Come (Here)With Daily Practice! First he waits (his waiting is never calm but he does not leave his space in front of me!) to be told to go "Say Hello" he will then run over and touch the persons hand and allow himself to be petted, he may come back directly because sometimes he gets something from me for doing his "Say Hello". (Clicker is no longer needed at his stage of training but I still reinforce/reward intermittently.
If you know how to teach your dog to touch someone using your clicker, as a pup, before Jumping up, You can also teach your dog to learn to stay close, by reinforcing that behavior when someone approaches. You can start with familiar people and dogs ('Bizzy' Says Hello to dogs also) by rewarding him for being there. I didn't teach sit till I knew I was not going to show him anymore! I did teach a strong Wait (Wait means to hang out and don't move forward) on his feet. Practice every day in many settings to make it strong. Then during an actual encounter, have the person put a hand down to great the dog, if you bring the dog to them, if your dog moves to the person; have them move away so the dog cannot see the persons face because they have turned away with hands in the air. It helps to practice with friendly co operative folks. I always ask interested people if they "Would help me train my pup?" I don't use the -P untill I make sure the dog understands how to make a reinforcement by staying close and by touching a hand, these are 2 different behaviors and should not be started together in the same session. Bea
K9sbehave.com
Dogs Changing or Not?
>>Dogs have not changed, but the circumstances of how they are kept, pressures they are subject to, and emotional demands placed on them are heavier now.<<
Again I beg to differ with this comment. It seems to me if dogs had not changed, they would still be looking and acting more like original canids. Yes humans have changed the way dogs are dramatically so, to suit their needs and fantasies, as I've said before dogs are a mirror of ourselves. They are more like us then any other Kept animal. In this respect they MUST change in order to live with us in our changing world.
And so must trainers change, they way they look at and handle the care and training of dogs and other animals. I also suppose I could look at the terrible way dogs can be treated by humans, to equate the terrible way humans treat humans also. But I don't want to go there for this discussion.
The bottom line is Dogs change Because humans change. Humans and Dogs insides might not have changed much,(except for what we have done to brachycephalic dogs poor things) but our brains must keep up with our societal changes in order to survive. Dog are great survivors!
K9sbehave.com
dogs changing or not?
Thanks K9sbehave.com for your comments and response.
I am formulating my ideas and it helps to have feedback to clarify my thinking.
So I agree that trainers need to change to keep up with societal changes and as as well as what is being learned about how mammalian brains function and, regarding bringing up dogs, the findings of newer research and theory about how the young of all species function and learn.
regards, Bill
training dog from the heart since 1983.
Loose Leash
I think Aidan has written some great stuff on loose leash walking that you can refer to and I think he even made a video on the topic. There is also some available here Loose Leash Walking For Dogs that might help you out! Thanks for some great responses!